We loved Porto. After three short days in Lisbon, walking a lot, the smaller scale of Porto was a relief. Both places were very interesting, but Porto was characterized by incredibly friendly people, affordable prices, and a vibrancy that was very compelling. At the same time, Porto was run down in places, with a lot of empty and derelict buildings, and apparently quite a lot of people living with not very much.
We were fortunate to have found an apartment right on the river, in the old town. We’d been warned it might be noisy, but it was fine, and so nice to have a little home where we could make some meals, and relax at the end of the day.
Porto is on the river Douro, which is the source from which a lot of Portugal’s wine comes. It’s a very long river, reaching into Spain, and we took a boat down a part of it, watching the hilly vineyards pass by, and seeing what look like freshwater beach towns, complete with heavily populated beaches.
The food was spectacular – inexpensive, and strong on seafood. We limited ourselves to dinner out, because we were usually busy walking during the day, but the octopus was incredible, as was the sea bream cooked in salt. Actually it was all great. As was the port, which has become an evening ritual for us. We did the tour at Sandeman, which was deliciously informative.
There’s a lot we didn’t do – so we have to go back. Here are some pictures to give you an idea of what we saw.
The Douro River, from the old town Beautiful buildings, densely packed on the hillside The narrow streets of the old town There were quite a few run-down or derelict buildings Looking down from the Cathedral Water views everywhere Our tour guide Walking down from the cathedral No way to drive to this house The transition from the old town to the more modern A strange aesthetic in this column …and a closeup Tile is huge in Portugal. This is the railway station Also the railway station From which we took the train up the Douro Valley So we could take a boat back to Porto Passing gorgeous estates A monastery, now a hotel Vines everywhere The river is worthy of a holiday all to itself A beach on the river, heavily populated, although it was a week day Boats were all over the river These two huge locks control the water flow Preparing to enter In the lock at the top Looking up the lock walls from the bottom The water flow is controlled by these gates Back on the waterfront in Porto Looking across the river Every inch of land is built on The small barrels are for tawny port The big ones are for ruby port Reserve port is bottled. Some goes back to 1907. A fort at Figueira da Foz Heavy boat traffic – much of it for tourists Sun setting At the beach Watching the sun set Sunset over the rocks Sunset from town An organ grinder, for some reason with chickens The river at night A double decker bridge
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